Gilding With Impact Metal Step By Step: Fake Gold

Gilding with impact metal is an alternative to the complex and expensive real gilding. In the 10th episode of the decorative painting series, Friederike Schulz shows how it works and what effects can be achieved .

Author: Friederike Schulz / Photos: Lars Krüger

With a "gold-plated" font, for example, you can achieve great effects. You don't necessarily have to resort to real gold leaf. Impact metals, i.e. base alloys, are the inexpensive alternative to gold leaf. Impact metal - especially for beginners of leaf metal - has the advantage that it is somewhat thicker than real gold leaf and therefore easier to work with. When "gilding" with impact metal, the "fake gold" must be sealed acid-free. In the unsealed state and after contact with the skin or special environmental influences, it can turn brown.

The right adhesive for gilding with impact metal

Due to the fact that the sheet thickness is many times greater than that of real gold, a different adhesive is also required. There are z. B. classic milk or, as used in the example shown here, a red colored liquid (eg "Permacoll Size HA red" from Kölner). In contrast to milk, this is not transparent, but imitates the classic red hue of poliment gilding, which makes the metal on it appear warmer. For the final protection against oxidation and external influences, a special water-based paint (eg: "Leaf Protect" from Kölner) is a good choice, because in contrast to the Zapon paint, it does not smell and is easier to process.

Materials: application agent and top coat, impact metal from a roll or as a sheet on transfer paper. You should also have the following tools at hand: cutter, pressure roller, polishing cloth or cotton wool, stencil brush and a brush for the top coat.

Apply template for gilding

Place and fix the template. The reverse side of the template is sprayed with reversible spray adhesive so that the paper adheres well to the surface. Roll the template evenly with the pressure roller. You should make sure that there are no air pockets. Alternatively, you can of course also use plotted adhesive film. In this case, this is not necessary for some difficult or simply annoying cutting out of the template.

Cut out the self-made template after fixing it with the cutter. With straight lines, the use of a ruler is recommended. After cutting out, the paper can be removed and the writing can be exposed for subsequent coating with the adhesive.

Dab the glue "dry" with the stencil brush - this means that the brush is well worked in with the glue, but not too damp. This prevents the template from being undermined.

Gild with metal

Now you have to wait until the "gold plating" begins. The adhesive is tightened when you can feel the adhesive force with your knuckles. Basically, you should wait at least 15 minutes before you start to apply the metal. Press on the metal with a soft plastic roller. Now the transfer paper should come off easily.

The metal is then polished with a soft polishing cloth or cotton wool so that it adheres well to the edges and narrow bars. Now the entire surface is painted. Once the paint has dried, the stencil is carefully removed.

The gilded metal is well suited for indoor use. Gilding with real gold is recommended outdoors. We will present these in the next episode.

Other episodes of the decorative painting series:

Painted fabric

Painted mahogany wood

Wall in a tartan skirt

Three-dimensional painting

Not quite in white: imitation brèche grise marble

Black gold: imitation of Portor marble

Classic Art Nouveau painting: based on an old pattern

Floor painting: concrete floors with chic

Sky painting: fair weather clouds